A Guide To Gemstone Cuts & Shapes

When searching for the perfect colored gemstone – whether for an engagement ring, a signature piece, or a one-of-a-kind sapphire ring – it’s easy to focus solely on color and carat. But the cut – the way the gemstone is shaped and faceted – plays a crucial role in its brilliance, value, and overall expression. At Nangi, we combine Scandinavian minimalism with Sri Lankan color and soul – which is why each gemstone is carefully selected not only for its color and clarity, but also for its shape and cut.

Why Cut and Shape Matter

When a gemstone is expertly cut in a way that enhances its ability to reflect light, several things happen: the brilliance(how the light is bent and reflected) increases, the color becomes more vivid, and the stone can appear larger and more luxurious – even if the carat weight is modest. The cutting style and number of facets directly impact how the light "dances" inside the gemstone.

Want to learn more about gemstone size? Read our article on the difference between carat and karat.

In general: The higher the number of facets (that is, the number of flat surfaces cut into the gemstone), the more brilliantly it sparkles – and the more desirable and valuable it becomes.

Read "Ring Cuts Explained"

The Most Popular Gemstone Cuts

Here’s a guide to the gemstone cuts worth knowing. We’ve included both timeless classics and lesser-known styles to give you the full picture.

Pear Cut

An elegant blend of round and pointed, the pear cut – also known as teardrop – is said to symbolize tears of joy. It’s a striking choice for the modern, confident woman who dares to walk her own path.

Many of Nangi’s most iconic pieces feature our signature pear-cut gemstones. The shape resembles a teardrop, with a softly rounded bottom and a graceful pointed top. First developed for diamonds in Belgium as early as 1458, the pear cuthas long symbolized refined beauty and individuality.

Perfect for earrings, pendants, and rings, the pear cut creates the illusion of length – for both the gemstone and the wearer’s finger.

With 71 facets, this is one of the most faceted cuts available – meaning it reflects light and color in a truly spectacular way, whether it's a diamond, sapphire, tourmaline, or any other colored gemstone.

Explore our teardrop-cut gemstone jewelry here

Oval Cut

Timeless and feminine, the oval cut elongates the finger and makes the gemstone appear larger. Based on the brilliant cut, the oval shape typically has 58 facets, though some versions can have up to 69 – offering stunning sparkle in a soft, flattering silhouette.

One of the world’s most iconic rings? The deep blue, 12-carat oval sapphire surrounded by diamonds on the hand of Duchess Kate Middleton – originally belonging to Princess Diana.

Explore our oval-cut sapphire rings here

Round (Brilliant) Cut

The most iconic of all, the brilliant cut is the industry standard – with 58 precisely calculated facets that maximize brilliance and light return. Though it’s the most technically demanding cut, it’s also the most beloved, especially in engagement rings.

In English, it’s called the round cut, but in gemology it’s known as the brilliant cut – and rightly so. No other shape reflects light quite as intensely.

Explore our brilliant-cut pieces, including our signature Baby Peacock with a vivid teal sapphire

Trillion Cut

If you're drawn to something bold and expressive, the trillion cut is a truly striking choice. With its distinctive triangular shape and sharp lines, this cut offers a modern and edgy look, while also highlighting the gemstone’s natural color and clarity.

The trillion cut – also known as trilliant – can vary in both length and angle, but what they all share is a captivating visual play. The shape reflects light in a dramatic way, making it ideal for those who want to stand out with a daring and sophisticated design.

At Nangi, you'll find trillion-cut gemstones featured in our Adams Peak rings, inspired by the iconic and sacred mountain in Sri Lanka. The triangular shape of the ring mirrors both the silhouette of the mountain and its deeper symbolism – balance, direction, and spiritual strength.

Trillion-cut gemstones radiate a truly unique vibe. A ring featuring a trillion-cut gem is guaranteed to make anyone stand out from the crowd.

Explore our Adams Peak collection – or source your very own trillion-cut gemstone and create a custom piece with us

Asscher Cut

With its distinctive square shape, cropped corners, and step-cut facets, the Asscher cut is a timeless favorite. It blends luxury and structure in a way that gives a clear Art Deco feel – elegant, graphic, and refined.

The cut was developed in 1902 by the Dutch Asscher brothers, pioneers in gemstone cutting, and has since become a symbol of sophisticated style and architectural precision.

Its popularity experienced a renaissance when Sex and the City swept the world: in Season 3, Aidan proposes to Carrie with a 3-carat Asscher-cut engagement ring – sparking the dream of the perfect ring for an entire generation.

At Nangi, we celebrate this classic cut in several of our designs – including a one-of-a-kind ring featuring an Asscher-cut sapphire. A truly unique piece, rich in both character and story.

Explore our asscher cut gemstone jewelry

Baguette Cut

With its long and narrow rectangular shape, the baguette cut is an elegant choice – often used as a side stone in ring designs, but also striking on its own in a clean, minimalist setting.

As the name suggests, this cut resembles a baguette: straight, sleek, and refined. It gained popularity during the iconic Art Deco era of the 1920s and '30s, known for its architectural aesthetics and stylized elegance.

The ring above has two baguette side stones

Baguette-cut gemstones can be set both horizontally and vertically, adding a refined touch in either direction. Take, for example, our vertically set baguette-cut diamond on a sleek gold band – delicate and edgy all at once.

Did you know that all our diamonds are lab-grown? Nangi is proud to be the first jewelry brand in Norway to offer sustainable lab-grown diamonds.

Emerald Cut

With its rectangular shape and step-like facets, the emerald cut is a sophisticated and timeless choice. While it offers less sparkle than a brilliant cut, it beautifully highlights the gemstone’s clarity, structure, and natural color play in a uniquely refined way.

Though similar to the baguette cut, the emerald cut stands apart with its slightly trimmed corners, lending it a softer and more elegant appearance.

Its elongated silhouette looks especially graceful on the finger and gives the piece a clean, architectural feel. The emerald cut is ideal for richly colored gemstones – like sapphire, ruby, or tourmaline – where the focus is meant to be on the stone itself.

Explore our emerald cut jewelry here

Cushion Cut

The cushion cut, also known as the pillow shape, is a square or rectangular cut with gently rounded corners – an elegant blend of classic structure and soft curves. This cut has been used for over 200 years and is renowned for giving gemstones a warm, nostalgic glow and exceptional depth of color.

It resembles both the square cut and the Asscher cut but stands out with its smoother lines and 64 facets that catch the light in a subtle, sophisticated way.

The name comes from its resemblance to a classic sofa cushion – and just like a cushion, it’s a shape that’s easy to fall for. Romantic, timeless, and full of character.

“The cushion cut is actually one of my personal favorites. When our first child was born, Danuka surprised me with a vivid cushion-cut ruby, flanked by two trillion-cut diamonds. The ring symbolizes our little family of three. (Since then, we’ve become four – and the jewelry collection has grown with us.)”
– Jenny Gørvell-Dahll, Founder of Nangi

What’s a push present?

Princess Cut

The princess cut is one of the most popular modern gemstone shapes – often referred to as the square version of the brilliant cut. It combines sharp lines with exceptional sparkle, and is especially loved for its clean geometry and intense light reflection.

Developed as recently as 1979, the princess cut quickly gained icon status – offering much of the same brilliance as the round cut, but with a more modern and edgy look.

Light dances beautifully across the facets of this cut, giving the gemstone a striking and powerful glow. It's the perfect choice for those seeking something timeless, yet bold and expressive.

Above: Check out this stunning custom ring here

Radiant Cut

Cross the soft curves of a cushion cut with the sharp brilliance of a princess cut – and you get the radiant cut. This modern shape features a square or rectangular outline with straight, cropped corners, giving it a geometric and balanced look.

The radiant cut brings together the best of both worlds: the maximum sparkle of brilliant-cut facets with the clean, contemporary lines of a structured shape. It’s no wonder it’s a favorite among Hollywood stars like Jennifer Lopez and Khloé Kardashian – the radiant cut truly lives up to its name.

Perfect for those who want a dramatic, glamorous piece with serious wow-factor – and a gemstone that catches the light from every angle.

Explore all our radiant cut jewelry here

Rose Cut

The rose cut is a centuries-old gemstone cut that dates all the way back to the 1500s. It's defined by its domed surface covered in triangular facets, and it typically lacks a flat pavilion underneath. This gives the gemstone a soft, subtle glowthat sets it apart from the more modern, high-sparkle cuts.

Rose-cut gemstones are often used in pendants and drop necklaces, where their vintage-inspired and artistic expression truly shines. It’s a perfect choice if you’re looking for a piece with historic soul and colorful character.

At Nangi, you'll find rose-cut gemstones in several of our colorful pendants – all handcrafted in solid gold with a unique, bohemian flair.

Explore the collection here

Marquise Cut

The marquise cut is a striking and sophisticated shape, known for its long, narrow silhouette and pointed ends. Its form resembles a smile or an eye – creating a flattering, elongating effect on both the gemstone and the finger. Thanks to its length, the stone often appears larger than its actual carat weight.

This elegant cut has royal roots: In the 1700s, King Louis XV of France is said to have commissioned a diamond shaped like the lips of his mistress, the Marchioness Madame de Pompadour. The result? The marquise cut – a symbol of love, status, and individuality.

While marquise-cut engagement rings were once rare, they’re now making a major comeback. In the 2024–2025 trend forecasts, experts highlight the marquise as one of the top picks for brides seeking something distinctive and deeply personal. This cut perfectly balances vintage glamour with modern edge – and it’s guaranteed to turn heads.

Explore all our rings featuring marquise-cut gemstones

At Nangi, we can custom-design your dream piece – with a marquise-cut sapphire, diamond, or any colored gemstone in the exact combination that suits you. Check out our Ring Designer.

Find the Cut That Reflects You

When you choose a gemstone, you're choosing more than just color and carat – you're choosing an expression, a style, and a feeling. The shape and cut determine how the light dances, how the color comes alive, and how the piece looks and feels on you.

At Nangi, we hand-select every gemstone with precision and care – and we work closely with master cutters in Sri Lankato create both classic and one-of-a-kind shapes. Whether you're drawn to a timeless brilliant cut, a dramatic marquise, or a rare trillion, we’ll help you find – or create – the piece that truly represents you.

We offer a wide selection of gemstones in various cuts, sizes, and colors – and we can custom-make anything from engagement rings to personal signature jewelry.

Explore our collection, or get in touch to design your very own dream piece with us.