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Grading Gemstones — Color, Clarity, Cut, and Conscience

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At Nangi, we believe a piece of jewelry is never just gold and gemstones — it’s a story, a symbol, and a reflection of love. But to truly understand what makes a gemstone unique, we also need to talk about grading.

blue asscher cut sapphire yellow gold baguette lab-diamonds

Above: Sapphire Ring with Baguette Diamonds

Many jewelers use terms like AAA or even AAAA to describe quality, but these labels can mean very different things depending on who you ask. For us, grading is about combining professional precision with honesty and transparency.

That’s why we always show real photos of every gemstone in natural light — never digital renderings. When you choose a sapphire, ruby, or tourmaline from Nangi, you see exactly what you’re getting. Each stone is photographed, documented, and handpicked with care, ensuring that your jewelry is as unique as the story it will tell.

Read more in our Gemstone Encyclopedia

oval bi-colored sapphire pendant

Above: Pendant with colored gemstones & Diamond Necklace

How We Grade Gemstones at Nangi

At Nangi, every gemstone is evaluated individually based on color, clarity, and cut. Instead of using letter grades such as A, AA, or AAA, we use the same professional terminology that gem experts apply in Sri Lanka — where our gemstones are hand-selected.

For clarity, we use the following designations:

  • Eye clean: No inclusions visible to the naked eye.
  • Loupe clean: Free from inclusions even under 10× magnification.

When we say a gemstone is “clean,” we don’t mean flawless or “without character” — we mean that it appears clear and free from distracting inclusions. All natural gemstones carry subtle traces of the forces that shaped them — nature’s fingerprints that make every stone one of a kind.

These terms are recognized internationally by serious gemologists and provide an honest picture of a gemstone’s natural quality. Combined with our evaluation of color (hue, saturation, tone) and cut (how the stone reflects light), they offer a complete and reliable foundation for describing quality.

grønn sapphire white gold baguette lab-diamonds

Why We Don’t Use AAA, AA, or A

In the jewelry world, designations like A, AA, and AAA are often used to indicate quality — but these are not standardized and can mean entirely different things from one supplier to another. Even the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the global authority on gem grading, emphasizes that there is no universal system for grading colored gemstones.

That’s why we choose clarity, not marketing. For us, these letter grades are commercial labels — not scientific standards. By using professional terms like eye clean and loupe clean, paired with precise color and cut descriptions, we provide assessments that truly reflect a gemstone’s real qualities.

At Nangi, quality isn’t defined by letters — it’s defined by honesty, expertise, and beauty. Every gemstone you see comes with real, unedited photos taken in natural light, so you can see the stone exactly as it is. Each one is selected for its glow, character, and story — not because it fits into a vague grading scale.

black sapphire ring yellow gold

Color — Nature’s Signature

Color is often what captures the eye first. The color spectrum of sapphires and tourmalines is almost limitless — from deep ocean blues and golden sunshine to soft rosé champagne and greenish-blue hues. Here, imagination is the only boundary.

We evaluate color through three key aspects: hue, saturation, and tone. A well-balanced stone has a vivid, pure color that allows light to play through — without appearing dull or overly dark.

Nangi Fine Jewelry

@magnusfotografi

Clarity — Nature’s Fingerprint

All natural gemstones contain inclusions — tiny traces of the process that created them. For us, these are nature’s signature, proof of authenticity. We select only gemstones whose inclusions do not detract from their beauty or are visible to the naked eye.

A completely flawless gemstone is almost never found in nature. For us, true beauty is natural beauty — those subtle, individual marks that make a gemstone feel even more personal.

Nangi Fine Jewelry

Cut — The Art of Revealing Light and Life

While diamonds are cut to standardized shapes, each colored gemstone must be cut individually. The cut determines how light is reflected within the stone. A well-cut gemstone makes its color bloom and its light dance, while a poor cut can cause windowing — where light escapes instead of reflecting back.

At Nangi, we only select gemstones that are cut to achieve the perfect balance between brilliance and color. Every cut is chosen to enhance the gem’s natural strength — never to hide it.

champagne yellow brown sapphire pendant

Above: Pendants with sapphire

Enhancements and Honesty

The jewelry industry uses various gemstone treatments. At Nangi, we’re open about this. Sapphires, for example, may be heat-treated, a traditional and permanent method that enhances color.

However, we never sell stones that have undergone invasive treatments like beryllium diffusion, glass filling, or artificial color enhancement. Such methods diminish both value and longevity — and go against our philosophy of sustainable luxury.

moonstone pendant

Above: Moonstone Pendant

RJC Certification and Traceability

At Nangi, we know that grading isn’t only about how a gemstone looks — it’s also about where it comes from. We partner with an RJC-certified producer in Sri Lanka, where our jewelry is handcrafted using carefully selected gemstones.

This certification ensures that every step — from sourcing and setting to the finished piece — meets the

strictest global standards for human rights, environmental responsibility, and ethical practice.

Learn more about RJC certification and responsibility in the jewelry industry

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Above: Peach Quartz & Apricot Agate

Why Grading Matters

Grading helps us understand and evaluate the quality of gemstones. But to us, it’s more than a technical scale — it’s part of an emotional journey. It’s about finding the gemstone that speaks to your heart.

A diamond may symbolize eternal love, a tourmaline self-expression, and a moonstone poetic mystery. Grading helps describe quality — but the story and emotion give it meaning.

Nangi’s Promise

At Nangi, we promise authentic photos of every gemstone, taken in natural light, so you see it as it truly is. We ensure traceability through our RJC-certified partners and work exclusively with natural gemstones and ethical lab-grown diamonds.

Every piece is a blend of Scandinavian design and Sri Lankan craftsmanship. When you wear a Nangi creation, you wear not only a gemstone — but a story of love, responsibility, and beauty designed to last for generations.

Nangi Fine Jewelry

Above: Toi Et Moi-design stacked with wedding band

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Join the Nangi family!

Subscribe to our newsletter to be the first to know when we release new one-of-a-kind pieces, and gain exclusive access to secret sales and events


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